As a burgeoning market, Africa is a significant producer of raw materials like cotton, has and continues to create internationally acclaimed designers, and possesses a rising middle class. UNESCO estimates that the continent’s luxury goods industry brought in an estimated US$6 billion dollars in 2022.
Leading global brands are taking notice and as a response, are cautiously gaining a deeper foothold in key markets on the continent.
Rising fashion superpower
In 2023, French fashion house Balmain launched its first stand-alone flagship store in South Africa. Newer high-end labels like Paris-based Casablanca and LA-label Amiri, which capture the zeitgeist with an alternative take on modern luxury, also made their entry into the country in collaboration with Yawa, a local fashion distributor and store selling streetwear-focused names like Off-White and Daily Paper.
Other advanced fashion markets, such as Morocco, have the same effect. In 2022, Aksal Luxury, one of the country’s top-tier fashion distributors and development companies with franchise agreements with LVMH and Richemont, added Bottega Veneta to its wide roster of storied fashion houses, further indicating the growing buying power and appetite of the African luxury consumer.
Nicolene Anley is the co-founder and director of Luna Belle Ventures, a newly launched Cape Town-based agency that brings global names like CHIMI and Golden Concept to South Africa. According to her, increased access to global brands combined with tourism has shaped the progression of the industry. She says, “Access has broadened the horizons of local shoppers and the interests of global brands alike.” However, despite the current buzz, Western luxury brands have always considered the continent a dynamic market worth exploring. The availability of Western brands on the continent is not a new phenomenon. Countries like South Africa, Nigeria and Morocco have had some access to European luxury for decades. This is through regional fashion distributors like the aforementioned Aksal Luxury or the Apsley Group, which runs high-end boutiques in Cape Town and Johannesburg, offering the likes of Hermes, Valentino and Dior to discerning South African consumers. In Nigeria, multi-brand local boutiques like Temple Muse have been responsible for introducing a diverse mix of international and regional names, including Christian Lacroix, Givenchy, Lisa Folawiyo and Ituen Basi.
Evolution of African luxury
The term luxury has taken on a new meaning for the region in recent years. “Historically, luxury in Africa was often associated with Western brands and limited to a small elite demographic,” explains Sumendra Chetty, a fashion buyer for Merchants on Long, one of South Africa’s leading boutiques.
With a focus on crafts, local sourcing and traditional materials, African designers are building strong labels cherished locally and globally. Temple Muse’s retail operations and client service manager, Orwi Manny Ameh says that African fashion has always defined the philosophy of luxury. “Our indigenous processes of hand-making things, be it crafts, arts or fashion, is the core element of luxury. The West didn’t teach us luxury, not the making or consumption of it.”
Raeesa Brey, a South African strategist at London-based trends forecasting company WGSN, believes that the rise of African luxury can also be attributed to projects like the BRICS+ Fashion Summit, which gives exposure and offers investment opportunities to brands from emerging markets.
Brey notes that competitions such as the International Woolmark Prize and the LVMH Prize, which in 2019 was awarded to an African designer, Thebe Magugu, for the first time since its launch, have been a “turning point” for brands. These competitions often come with cash prizes, mentorship and global press coverage, and are instrumental in boosting the profiles of designers and legitimising the industry.
On the continent, local investment firms like Birimian are also helping to solidify the market through incubator support, financial backing, strategic advice and educational opportunities to equip creative entrepreneurs with the skills to develop their businesses.
Music and tech effect
Before the online boom and the introduction of local boutiques that distribute international brands, African consumers had to travel overseas to shop for luxury fashion. However, the adoption of technology has changed the landscape. From celebrities like Beyoncé dressed in Senegalese womenswear label Tongoro to Gigi Hadid wearing Egyptian accessories brand Okhtein, the interest in Made in Africa designs is partly driven by digital advertising and social media.
“TikTok and Instagram have helped to ignite this interest, allowing anyone to explore niche local tastes and consume regional content regardless of their location,” explains Brey. Specialists say the digitisation of the industry has been on the rise since the Covid-19 pandemic.
The growing influence of Amapiano and Afrobeats has also contributed to the progression of the sector, positioning Africa as a rising but essential ground for brands looking to appeal to youthful audiences and build cultural relevance. UNESCO states that 50% of Africa’s population is under 25 years old. As a result, brands like Burberry, Balmain and Dior are tapping some of the biggest African stars to increase their reach and position themselves as cool cultural curators and connectors. For example, Burna Boy and Tems recently fronted a Burberry holiday campaign; Fally Ipupa, who’s often draped in Balmain, is a close friend of the brand; and the likes of Rema, Ruger and Wizkid made appearances as guests at a 2023 Dior Homme showcase as did Tyla at Dolce & Gabbana.
The future is collaboration
As echoed by Ameh and Anley, making a positive entry and impact in Africa will require authentic collaborations with local experts. Ameh says, “Making use of local intelligence to tailor brands and products is a smart move that some global brands have already keyed into.” Chanel is a good example so far. As part of its ground-breaking 2022 Métiers d’Art showcase in Dakar, Senegal, a first for the brand and continent, the house proceeded to partner with Senegal as its producer of responsible, high-quality cotton.
Chetty adds that cultural sensitivity is crucial. “There is a risk of cultural appropriation if international brands fail to authentically engage with African culture and communities,” she explains. While the growth of international luxury brands can bring benefits to our industry, it is essential to ensure that it is accompanied by efforts to support local talent, promote diversity, and foster sustainable development,” she concludes. In essence, Africa is open and ready for the business of fashion.
